Spark Plug recommendation?
I am installing the BANKS headers/exhaust system on my 1997 F-53 with 460 this saturday (removed the old system last Saturday). I figure while I'm in there I might as well replace the spark plugs. Any recommendations on brand/part number? Thanks in advance!!
RE: Campgrounds between Cheyenne,WY and Custer ,SD taking SR 85
There is a full hookup campground between Lingle and Ft Laramie, WY....Pony Soldier RV Park. We've stayed there twice when visiting relatives. Also an interesting little museum on the same grounds.
That's the one I was talking about. It is an adequate campground for an overnight stay, however, the trains were rolling by and blowing their whistle's all night long.
RE: Denver One Night Stopover
Thanks to kplender for his information. Cherry Creek still has a lot of open spaces for early June. We will be coming in from Arches the middle and found a really nice campsite at Cherry Creek.
Glad I could help, it is an oasis in the middle of the city and is really beautiful. Don't be surprised to see deer, coyote, fox, raccoons running around. Even some good Walleye fishing to be had in the reservoir. Have Fun!!
RE: Campgrounds between Cheyenne,WY and Custer ,SD taking SR 85
On the west side of Denver, I would stay at Clear Creek RV Park in Golden, Colorado. A real nice campground in a very nice setting right along Clear Creek. I have stayed at BJ's campground in Lusk, it is not scenice (but then what is in that part of Wyoming :-). It has full hookups and is very adequate for an overnight stay. I have also stayed in the city park in Lingle. It is free (they ask for a donation, I think we dropped $10.00 in the bucket), it has water/electric hookups and is very nice/adequate for an overnight stay. I would not recommend the Pony Express (or something like that name) near Fort Laramie since it is right across from the Highway and the trains are rolling thru all night long blowing their horns. However, keep in mind, that the drive from Denver to Custer is really not a long/hard drive to do in 1 day. The only reason I have stopped in Lusk/Lingle for the night is because we left on Friday after work. You can easily make it from Denver to Custer in 5-6 hours without really pushing it (don't know if that is a hard drive for you or not).
Oh Yeah, I might add, you could consider driving East on I-76 out of Denver to Ft. Morgan, then go straight north through the Pawnee National Grasslands and then into Nebraska through Scottsbluff and then up to Ft. Robinson State Park in Nebraska. This is a really neat place to visit (it is where the Red Cloud Indian Agency was established back in the 1800's). This is where Crazy Horse was killed by a soldier (you can stand on the spot where it happened). This is also where the Sioux Nation surrendered to the U.S. Army (they talk about it in the close of the movie "Dances with Wolves"). They have a really nice campground there and a museum, horse rides, stagecoach rides, activity center, chuckwagon supper, a playhouse, etc. Just a thought if you have never been that way before. If you have any questions, just let me know, I have made the trip both ways many times. Have Fun!!
RE: Denver One Night Stopover
Cherry Creek State Park. Very nice campground with full hookups. If it is for a Friday or Saturday night, forget it, it's probably booked. Shouldn't be problem on a week night, however. From the park, you are probably a half hour from the airport (if you don't go during rush hour).
Go here to check it out:
http://parks.state.co.us/Parks/CherryCreek/Camping/
RE: FORD BRAKE/CRUISE RECALL - URGENT NEW INFO!!!
If the switch is not contacted by the brake fluid leaking from the master cylinder, there is virtually no risk of a fire. If you go in for the recall, and they don't have the part, they simply unplug the switch from the master cylinder and tie it up out of the way so no brake fluid can get on it. This keeps everything safe until the fix can be installed.
Your explanation is wrong.
Inside the switch there are seals. Brake fluid can leak past the seals into the electrical portion of the switch and cause corrosion. The corrosion can cause a conductive path to ground. There is power to the switch even when the key is off.
Power> path to ground> corrosion > resistance > heat > brake fluid in switch > fire
If they don't have the part they unplug the two wires from the wiring harness that connects to the switch. No power to switch. No fire. No curse control.
The explanation from a fire investigator.
I still stand by my statement. If no brake fluid can make contact with the switch, there can be no corrosion of the seal, and therefore no risk of fire. I understand there is always power to the switch, but again, if the switch cannot come into contact with the brake fluid, it will not start on fire. I don't know how to state the point any simpler.
Pirate, roll your eyes all you want, it doesn't change the facts.
RE: FORD BRAKE/CRUISE RECALL - URGENT NEW INFO!!!
Well gents, you are both still wrong. I stand by my understanding of the problem. Have either of you taken that switch off and examined it? Read about Ford Cruise Control Recall(which also has a video simulation of the problem) and here is the recall:
Recall data for: 1997 FORD F53
NHTSA Campaign Number: 07V336000
Manufacturer Campaign Number: 05S28
Make: FORD
Model: F53
Year: 1997
Component:
VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL
Manufacturers Involved: FORD MOTOR COMPANY
Begin Date Of Manufacturing: 19940712
End Date Of Manufacturing: 19971219
Recall Type: V
Potential Number Of Units Affected: 3600000
Date Owner Notified By Manufacturer: 20070813
Recall Initiator: ODI
Manufacturer Responsible For Recall: FORD MOTOR COMPANY
Date Report Received By ODI: 20070803
Date Added To File: 20070803
Regulation Part Number:
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard Number:
Defect Summary:
ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN.
Consequence Summary:
THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE.
Corrective Action:
DEALERS WILL INSTALL A FUSED WIRING HARNESS. OWNERS OF THE PASSENGER CARS INCLUDED IN THIS CAMPAIGN WILL BE INSTRUCTED TO RETURN THEIR VEHICLES TO THEIR DEALERS TO HAVE THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH DISCONNECTED AS AN INTERIM REPAIR. AS SOON AS REPAIR PARTS ARE AVAILABLE (EXPECTED OCTOBER 2007), OWNERS WILL BE INSTRUCTED TO RETURN TO THE DEALERS FOR INSTALLATION OF A FUSED WIRING HARNESS. THE RECALL BEGAN ON AUGUST 13, 2007, AND MAILING COMPLETED BY SEPTEMBER 19, 2007. OWNERS MAY CONTACT FORD AT 1-888-222-2751.
In the article you attached it states:
The NHTSA reported fatigue failure of a brake seal allows fluid to corrode the cruise control switch when it's pointed up. "The brake systems generate a vacuum that can potentially cause the (switch) to fail and in certain installation orientations catch fire."
This confirms my statement. If the switch is not contacted by the brake fluid leaking from the master cylinder, there is virtually no risk of a fire. If you go in for the recall, and they don't have the part, they simply unplug the switch from the master cylinder and tie it up out of the way so no brake fluid can get on it. This keeps everything safe until the fix can be installed.
RE: FORD BRAKE/CRUISE RECALL - URGENT NEW INFO!!!
My understanding is that the switch (even if it goes bad) isn't likely to start a fire unless the brake reservoir leaks. So they fix the switch instead of the reservoir to avoid a fire.
Exactly.
RE: FORD BRAKE/CRUISE RECALL - URGENT NEW INFO!!!
AHA! Mine was NOT located anywhere near the master cylinder....the Ford mechanic (HE thought it should be mounted on or near the master) had to get a helper....and together they found the part....on the OTHER side of the motorhome, the passenger side, down low, next to the Power Gear hydraulic jack reservior. After they found it....1 minite...and I was outta there!
Y' never know.
If the switch was not mounted underneath the reservoir, then it does not create a hazard. What happens is that the reservoir leaks, the brake fluid gets on the switch, and this ignites a fire. If the switch is not on the reservoir, then you don't have an issue.
Installing Banks Exhaust this weekend myself, any advice?
I received the Banks Exhaust system for my 1997 F53 yesterday (headers to tailpipe). I have been soaking all the exhaust bolts/studs from the exhaust manifold all the way back to the tailpipe with "Kroil" for the last couple of weeks in an effort to "loosen" everything up for disassembly. I will be tackling this on my own (it doesn't look like rocket science to me :-). Any advice from others, who have taken this project on, might want to offer? Thanks in advance!!
RE: FORD BRAKE/CRUISE RECALL - URGENT NEW INFO!!!
If you are at all concerned, just unplug the switch yourself. It is mounted to your brake master cylinder underneath the center of the fluid reservoir. Just squeeze the plug to release the latch mechanism and pull it out of the socket. Tie it up out of the way (so that any leaking brake fluid cannot touch it). Problem solved. When/if they get this all worked out, then go and have the "fix" installed. I know you won't have a cruise control, but I never use it anyway.
RE: Yellowstone camping
Just search "Yellowstone" in this forum and you will get more information than you could dream of (and more opinions as well). Personally, we stayed at Fishing Bridge (you will get lots of different opinions on this campground) because it is centrally located and has full hookups (we were there to see Yellowstone, not sit in our motorhome or hang out around a campfire). We left every morning right after breakfast, and most nights did not get home until after dark. You will definitely need reservations if you want to stay there in July (it may already be too late to even get a reservation any more). I wouldn't even consider travelling to Yellowstone in a 39 ft. motorhome without a toad. First off, you will have to unhook and hook up everything every day (which could ruin a great vacation in a big hurry). Second, you will be extremely limited as to where you can park that beast at the various areas of the park (I am not saying it would be impossible, but it would be a big hassle). Traffic in Yellowstone that time of year will be bad, trying to get a parking space for a car is challenging enough. That's my opinion, others will vary. Have Fun!!
RE: air conditioning in 1998 bounder
Very common problem. I had a 1999 Bounder with the same issue. Learned about the fix on the Bounder Forum.
It isn't a crushed duct, it is a flap of the adhesive backed foam, used to seal two sections of ducts. The adhesive lets go, and the flap now hangs in the duct, which restricts airflow, and depending on which way the flap is hanging, can work like a check valve (allows air to flow only 1 direction).
It's an EASY fix. You need to take the shroud off the A/C unit INSIDE the RV. Usually 4 screws, and you should see something like this:
http://2manytoyz.com/rv/ac/duct2.jpg
Take a peek down the duct...
http://2manytoyz.com/rv/ac/duct1.jpg
Here's the inside of mine AFTER I ripped out two large pieces of foam:
http://2manytoyz.com/rv/ac/duct4.jpg
Easy to see the joint where the two sections come together.
I also pulled the cover from the rear A/C unit, and looking towards the front of the coach, it was nothing but smooth duct most of the way towards the front A/C:
http://2manytoyz.com/rv/ac/duct3.jpg
10 minute fix. Only need a screwdriver. The foam was within easy reach, and I couldn't see any other restrictions between the two A/C units afterwards. Big difference in airflow through the coach, especially when only running on a single A/C.
Hope that helps.
You da man. It is answers like this that make this a great site/resource. THANK YOU!!
Do I need a digital antenna for HDTV?
This is a question for my stick house. I currently have a big antenna in my attic that I bought 10 years ago for my TV. I have a 10 year old Sony TV that is not HD. I received my gubbamint coupons for the converter box. Question: do I also have to buy a digital antenna? Or will my old antenna work? I'm confused. Thanks.
RE: Rubber roof coating
Here is a posting from the Yahoo Bounder Group website. From my experience, the person who posted this info is very knowledgable:
Rubber Roof Repair
By no means should you use anything on your roof that has any
petroleum product in it. Your roof is made of EPDM rubber. It is a great product but it has some limits. You cannot use anything to clean or coat the roof that contains any petroleum solvents. This included the coating Kool Seal sells for rubber roofs.
About 2 yeas ago I did a lot of research on this material and after talking with the manufacturers of Kool Seal and EPDM roofs I found that the Kool Seal has petroleum in it. What this will do is penetrate the EPDM and dissolve the adhesive. This will ruin the roof as it will allow the rubber to swell and bubble up badly.
I also found other so called "rubber roof coatings". The only one
recommended by ALPHA, the folks who make the EPDM material was the Liquid Roof and Liquid EPDM. You can read about them both on this page:
_http://www.liquid-roof.com/_ (http://www.liquid-roof.com/)
Right now the best price for the product is
here: _http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-roofs/38-1416.htm_
(http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-roofs/38-1416.htm) . You will need the 4 gallon kit. Order a couple of tubes of white Dicor caulk while you are at it.You also need a squeegee. Lowe's sells a 20 or 24 inch one that works well. Here is the information I posted after doing my roof:
It should be noted that this is EPDM! It is not a paint or coating. When you use this stuff you are applying another coat of EPDM rubber to the roof. It will seal small cracks but anything larger than 1/8 inch should be caulked with Dicor. The fact that this is EPDM makes it safe to use. It has no additives that can harm the roof like the "Kool Seal" and other so called rubber roof coatings. The Liquid Roof bonds to the existing EPDM and will not peel off like some of the other stuff. There is no primer needed.
I cleaned the roof with a mixture of water and Clorox and scrubbed it with a stiff bristle brush. That removed the loose dried out surface. When doing that I had to make sure to keep the sides rinsed off.
If you have wax on the sides it may cause it to streak. I have no wax on mine and it didn't hurt the clearcoat any.
You must remove any loose adhesive or putty. I found a lot of putty on the edges where the membrane went under the side trim/gutters.
I did not use the rear ladder to get on the roof. I used a regular ladder and stood it against the rolled up awning. It was safer going up and down. I also used an 8 foot step ladder when working around the edges.
After mixing the EPDM according to the instructions I took the 4 gallon pail up to the roof along with a smaller pail. I took some of the EPDM and a 4 inch brush and went all the way around the edges of the roof. If found it extremely hard to do this area as this stuff is like thick cake frosting and can get pretty messy. I had to forget some of the rules for painting and remember this is not paint!
The EPDM has a pot life of five hours so you have time to get it right. Any spillage comes off easily with a rag soaked with mineral spirits. NOTE: Do not let the mineral spirit rag touch any part of the membrane. Use it only for the sides below the membrane to get EPDM off the sidewalls should you have a drip...and you will!
After getting the round parts at the edge done I took the same paint brush and coated around the vents, ladder, antenna, dish and roof cap connection points. You really have to slap this stuff on because it is thick!
I chose not to remove the AC covers on mine because it has been cool here and I knew I wouldn't be able to walk on the roof for a few days. Instead I poured a little around the air conditioners and used a large squeegee from Lowe's to push the EPDM under the shrouds.
After doing that the rest was easy. I simply poured a line of EPDM, used the squeegee to spread it and rolled it in with a short napped roller. I had a 4 foot extension handle on both the squeegee and the roller. I worked from the rear toward the ladder against the side. Then I did the same from the front (make sure the antenna and dish are up) and eventually coated the entire roof doing the last few feet from the ladder. I was getting worried there at the end because I barely had enough to do the job. They tell you that the roof will puff up with a few blisters but not to worry because they will settle down as the EPDM sets up. I can say they were right. It looked terrible on the radius and seemed to have sags but after two days of curing it tightened right up.
This stuff loves heat and must be used at temperatures above 70 degrees and it must be kept dry for a day to be safe.
I never expected it to turn out this good. It has been five months and it shines like wet rubber.
RE: Heading to Yellowstone
Right now I'm trying to figure out the best way out of Denver to Coulter Bay. Right now I've got us going Hwy 287 to Laramie and then over to Jackson. But wondering if I-25 to Cheyenne is better. I know there are lots of post about the best routes - but I'm not having much luck with the search feature on the boards today.
:-)
Definitely take 287 out of Ft. Collins to Laramie, it cuts at least 45 minutes off the drive (and is a much prettier drive).
RE: Dutch Treat Camping in Zeeland, MI
Wow, I'm surprised, if their Dutch, you would think they would always be open and looking to make a dollar :)
I can say that because I'm Dutch ;)
RE: I figured out how to lower my TV so my 5er rides level...
Does that qualify as yard art? How much fun was dumping $20 of quarters in the self serve car wash attempting to remove all the dirt from the purty truck?
Was it worth it? Did he have fun? I would bet the answer to both questions is YES. Especially in about 10-15 years when he and his now grown up boys are reminiscing back on the old days and they bring up this adventure. Well worth it!!
RE: I'm buying a 1998 Bounder 32H - Advice?
That sounds like a reasonable price for the Bounder. In September of 2006 I purchased a 1997 36S Bounder on the F53 chassis for $29,000.00. It had only 32k miles, it does have leveling jacks, and it has the big living room slide (for which this chassis has a tag axle as well), and the backup camera. I don't know exactly how much value that adds to the motorhome, but I would guess that it would be about $10,000.00 or so in value. If you like the coach, and you feel comfortable with the price, I would go for it. Bounders are definitely not on the higher end of the scale when it comes to amenities, real wood cabinets, etc. But you will see that the typical Bounder owner is very loyal and appreciates the bang for the buck you get with the Bounder. You will get alot of differing opinions on leveling jacks. Personally, if I was looking at a motorhome, it would not be a deal breaker for me. If I couldn't live with the movement of the coach when parked, I would buy the mechanical stabilizer jacks (they are like scissor jacks) that mount on the chassis near the rear and front of the coach (you use a long bar to raise and lower them and I have seen them selling for about $600.00). Good Luck!!
